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Perfection to a tea

By Deng Zhangyu | China Daily | Updated: 2023-10-20 07:47
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Li processes Pu'er tea at his plantation in Kunlu Mountain in Pu'er city. DENG ZHANGYU/CHINA DAILY

Spirit trees

Pu'er tea is a type of tea produced in Yunnan province. The city of Pu'er took its name from the tea after it won the imperial court's imprimatur several hundred years ago.

Old tea trees are protected by different ethnic groups living in the area, including the Yi, Hani, Dai and Blang. All these ethnic groups maintain a tradition passed down from their ancestors: Respect and care for the tea trees like they were their own eyes.

"If you come to Pu'er, no matter where you go, you will see lots of well-protected trees. It's a result of our respect and love for them. We see them as gifts from nature," explains Li Xingchang.

Every spring, before harvesting, residents hold a number of ceremonies and rituals to pray for a good year and a good harvest. They also worship and give thanks to the tea trees that bring them good fortune. They believe that each one has a spirit, and they choose one as the "spirit tree" to pray in front of, and show their respect.

"We love them and take care of them like our children," says Li Xingchang, who is a member of the Yi ethnic group.

As he walks through his plantation, he gently plucks a bunch of leaves to show them in front of the camera. He then carefully puts them in his pocket to take home.

Li Xingchang says the picking method in Pu'er is different from that in other places in Southeast China. Tea pickers don't climb on trees. Instead, they use ladders to pick leaves to protect the ancient trees. Many of those on his plantation are several hundred years old.

The final product is poured by Li at his studio in Ning'er, Yunnan. ZHANG WEI/CHINA DAILY
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