Public recognition of Yunnan coffee is also rising. When Coffee Commune opened its shop in Shanghai's Pudong district six years ago, customers primarily sought imported beans from Colombia or Ethiopia. Now, many specifically request Yunnan varieties.

"Consumers have become much more knowledgeable about Yunnan coffee," Baden said. "They recognize the diversity of flavor profiles and are gaining confidence that it can rival Costa Rican, Colombian, or Kenyan coffee."

Yunnan produces more than 98 percent of China's coffee. Last year, the province exported 32,500 metric tons of coffee — a 358 percent increase from the previous year — reaching 29 countries and regions, including Germany and the United States, according to Yunnan customs.

"Everyone around the world, including in China, thinks of tea as China's beverage," Baden said. "But it's time to acknowledge that coffee also plays a major role here."

He said he has also noticed China's coffee culture expanding beyond younger generations.

"We see a lot of people in their 50s and 60s eager to learn about coffee and how to brew it at home," he said, referring to Coffee Commune's academy in Yunnan's Pu'er region, where courses are offered on coffee production and preparation.